Category: COMPOSITION

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Bakuchiol: A Kinder Retinol That’s Just As Effective

The Retinoid Revolution

If you’re interested in skincare, then it’s likely you’ve already heard of retinol and retinoids. First discovered in 1913 and steadily developed through four generations over the last half-century, retinoids are natural or synthetic derivatives of vitamin A. They are lauded by much of the skincare industry and surrounding media for their effectiveness and wide applications in medicine and cosmetology.

But that’s not the whole story! Retinol use can bring with it a host of unwelcome side effects, including skin dryness, peeling, and stinging. For decades, users of retinol have put up with this pain and discomfort, assuming that this was the price they must pay for better skin.

This doesn’t have to be the case, however! Bakuchiol, a completely natural compound found within the babchi plant, has shown remarkably similar properties to retinol, with none of the typical side-effects that regular retinoid users have come to dread.

Interested in learning more? Then come with us, dear reader, as we explain the science behind bakuchiol, and how you really can have your cake and eat it, too!

The Highs and Lows of Vitamin A

First granted approval as a topical medicine in the US in 1971, retinoids have become extremely popular in the treatment of acne, photoaged (aging from sun exposure) skin, hyperpigmentation, and several other skin complaints. They consistently perform in both scientific studies and consumer reviews, and have gained a reputation throughout the skincare landscape as a high-efficacy ingredient.

Retinol works by bolstering the body’s natural processes of wound healing. This process is usually incredibly effective, regenerating our bodies over and over, but can be disrupted by age, disease, and other factors, resulting in imperfect healing (scarring, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and more). Retinoids help facilitate proper wound healing by increasing the amount of cell differentiation/specialisation, proliferation, and apoptosis (programmed and orderly cell death, ready for new cells to take their place). By reducing the production of sebum, retinoids are also effective at reducing oily skin and blackheads.

That is an impressive list of benefits, but there is unfortunately another side to retinoids. The vitamin A derivatives can cause a host of unwelcome side effects, including pain, inflammation, and hypersensitivity. Burning, redness and peeling are so common amongst users of retinol that the ‘retinoid reaction’ has become a popular term in scientific study of the topic. Skin scaling and dermatitis are also reported side-effects, as well as photosensitivity (heightened sensitivity to UV).

Perhaps because of their positive effects, users seem willing to put up with a staggering list of negatives when it comes to retinoids. Wouldn’t it be ideal, researchers and users wondered in the late twentieth century, if something out there could work like retinol, but without the drawbacks?

The Promise of Bakuchiol

Enter bakuchiol! First found within the babchi plant during the mid-twentieth century, bakuchiol has been the subject of much excitement and experimentation in the last fifty years. The benefits of bakuchiol are quite stunning when taken as a whole. There is reputable clinical evidence that bakuchiol has antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, as well as having protective functions concerning the heart, liver, skin, and other organs.

How do these benefits compare with retinol, though? Exceedingly well! Studies have found that bakuchiol, despite having no structural similarity to retinol, functions in much the same way as retinoids do on skin. The gene expression profile (a method of measuring impact on cell activity) for both compounds is remarkably similar.

Randomised, double-blind academic research found bakuchiol to be entirely similar to retinol when it came to reversing signs of photoaging, whilst being much better tolerated. Similar studies have been conducted that find bakuchiol significantly improving users’ wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin elasticity, and firmness, all whilst causing fewer side effects than retinol.

It’s clear from the scientific evidence that bakuchiol is one of the most exciting, skincare breakthroughs of the last thirty years. Retinol, itself once considered the cutting edge of skin science, now looks as if its time in the sun is over (no pun intended)!

Same Results, Happier Skin

So, there you have it – bakuchiol has all the benefits of traditional retinoids, with far fewer drawbacks. And it’s completely natural and plant-derived, too; it’s a win-win! That’s why we here at LUMI simply refuse to use any retinoids in our products, despite them being cheaper. If we wouldn’t use it on our own faces, why would we ever allow it to end up on yours?

If you’re interested in adding bakuchiol and all its amazing benefits to your skincare routine, you can take a look at our products here. We particularly recommend the 40 & ICONIC Set, which combines our fantastic bakuchiol-rich skin cream with Superbloom toning mist and vitamin C night serum. The results are so fantastic, they must be seen to be believed!

References:
  1. Baldwin, H., Webster, G., Stein Gold, L., Callender, V., Cook-Bolden, F. E., & Guenin, E. (2021). 50 Years of Topical Retinoids for Acne: Evolution of Treatment. American journal of clinical dermatology,22(3), 315–327. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00594-8
  2. Buchanan, P. J., & Gilman, R. H. (2016). Retinoids: Literature Review and Suggested Algorithm for Use Prior to Facial Resurfacing Procedures. Journal of cutaneous and aesthetic surgery, 9(3), 139–144. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-2077.191653
  3. Chaudhuri, R. K., & Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International journal of cosmetic science, 36(3), 221–230. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117
  4. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2023, June 19). Inside Ingredients: Bakuchiol. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmetic-ingredients/actives/article/22865115/inside-ingredients-bakuchiol
  5. Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., Notay, M., Trivedi, M., Burney, W., Vaughn, A. R., Nguyen, M., Reiter, P., Bosanac, S., Yan, H., Foolad, N., & Sivamani, R. K. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. The British journal of dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
  6. Hofmann, G. A., & Weber, B. (2021). Drug-induced photosensitivity: culprit drugs, potential mechanisms and clinical consequences. Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft = Journal of the German Society of Dermatology : JDDG, 19(1), 19–29. https://doi.org/10.1111/ddg.14314
  7. Motamedi, M., Chehade, A., Sanghera, R., & Grewal, P. (2022). A Clinician’s Guide to Topical Retinoids. Journal of cutaneous medicine and surgery, 26(1), 71–78. https://doi.org/10.1177/12034754211035091
  8. Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
  9. Szymański, Ł., Skopek, R., Palusińska, M., Schenk, T., Stengel, S., Lewicki, S., Kraj, L., Kamiński, P., & Zelent, A. (2020). Retinoic Acid and Its Derivatives in Skin. Cells, 9(12), 2660. https://doi.org/10.3390/cells9122660
  10. The Guardian. Hughes, Sali (2023, September 29). Retinoids work, wipes don’t: 21 things I’ve learned about skin care. https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2023/sep/29/21-things-ive-learned-about-skin-care-sali-hughes
  11. Wysocka, M. (2022). Bakuchiol – a plant-based retinol. The review article. Aesthetic Cosmetology and Medicine. https://doi.org/10.52336/acm.2022.031
  12. Xin, Z., Wu, X., Ji, T., Xu, B., Han, Y., Sun, M., Jiang, S., Li, T., Hu, W., Deng, C., & Yang, Y. (2019). Bakuchiol: A newly discovered warrior against organ damage. Pharmacological research, 141, 208–213. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.phrs.2019.01.001
  13. Yin, S., Luo, J., Qian, A., Du, J., Yang, Q., Zhou, S., Yu, W., Du, G., Clark, R. B., Walters, E. T., Carlton, S. M., & Hu, H. (2013). Retinoids activate the irritant receptor TRPV1 and produce sensory hypersensitivity. The Journal of clinical investigation, 123(9), 3941–3951. https://doi.org/10.1172/JCI66413
  14. Zasada, M., & Budzisz, E. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy dermatologii i alergologii, 36(4), 392–397. https://doi.org/10.5114/ada.2019.87443
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How to cleanse your face

Let’s face it: people have made many mistakes when using cosmetic products in recent decades. As a result, they have damaged their skin instead of supporting it.

Cleaning your face plays an essential role in skincare routine. Let’s take a look at the ingredients we should avoid and point out the most effective and safe methods to clean our skin.

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The magic wand called HEMP

What is CBD?

CBD is an increasingly popular natural alternative for relieving a number of physical and mental health problems. However, there is a lot of confusion regarding CBD because the substance is said to have side effects and power to alter state of consciousness similar to marijuana. The hemp plant really contains more than 100 different natural substances known as cannabinoids, including CBD. Unlike other cannabinoids like THC, CBD does not have a narcotic effect. CBD is not psychoactive and is not classified as a narcotic. THC is illegal in many countries and is mostly used for recreational porposes, but CBD is valued for its medicinal and therapeutic effects.

CBD affects each person differently, according to the individual state of body and mind.

CBD helps identify weak links and health problems in the body and resolve them through the endocannabinoid system. The endocannabinoid system is a biological system similar to the immune system that plays a major role in controlling many vital processes, such as the functioning of the nervous system and metabolism. Unlike drugs, where one specific drug is created for each health problem, the endocannabinoid system works like the immune system, finding the problem that needs treatment and trying to “repair” it with the body’s own resources. Scientific studies have already demonstrated the benefits of CBD on a variety of conditions, including inflammation, sleep disorders, anxiety, joint issues, seizures, and weight problems. The list is long and keeps expanding as a result of new studies.

External magic wand to treat skin issues

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and forms an important part of the endocannabinoid system. Similar to receptors in the brain or digestive system, thousands of small receptors in the skin can bind to CBD and be responsive to its therapeutic value. This means that when applied to the skin, cosmetics containing CBD target the primary issue with a particular skin type and encourage the production of new, healthy skin cells to address the issue. CBD skincare products have helped people all over the world in restoring healthy skin, whether they were suffering from acne, pigment spots, scars, or micro-tears from dryness.

LUMI hemp seed oil based products work on the same principle. The ideal ratio of omega fatty acids for the skin is found in cold-pressed hemp seed oil, and also a number of beneficial vitamins, phytosterols, chlorophyll, and antioxidants. In order to guarantee the highest quality of active substances, LUMI works with local Estonian organic hemp farmers. The creams are prepared just after the oil is extracted from the seeds, ensuring that the products are as fresh and effective as possible.

Hemp oil helps to reduce many different skin problems, especially those related to excessive dryness of the skin and an imbalance of the microbiome – such as dermatitis or acne. For skin inflammations that require special attention, the LUMI selection also includes a CBD+ product line. We use the highest quality full-spectrum CBD extract, which has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, immediately helps with itching, soothes and stimulates the skin to renew itself over time. The organism naturally accepts CBD extract since it is natural to the human body. This explains the remarkable performance in complex problems as well. Additionally, the CBD+ products assist in the early prevention of skin issues. The saturation of high-quality active ingredients in the extract prevents the development of early aging symptoms like wrinkles, dull complexion, and rough, dry skin.

Photo: Caroline Sada
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Estonian miracle plants and ingredients of LUMI

In addition to being a healing sanctuary for the soul, forests in Estonia are also home to various mystical, magical plants used for generations by our grandmothers and great-grandmothers for their medical and cosmetic benefits. The world of plants is much more fascinating than we might think! LUMI’s heart beats in sync with nature, and every cream jar is full of power from local Estonian nature.